Home Again

I'm back home again on the Gold Coast after a relaxing holiday. On my journey I met some very interesting and hospitable people, saw some fabulous sights and experienced different cultures and cuisines. I wrote the blog mainly for myself so that I would  remember where I have been and what I did in various places, otherwise things and events tend to blur and coalesce. Space prevented me from putting down much of what I saw and did, but I tried to touch on the main things and I hope they were of passing interest to those who took the trouble to glance at these jottings.

FIN DE BLOG

Rome

The evening before I left Siena I went out for a meal with Sabrina at whose historic appartment, a stone's throw from the Piazza del Campo I was staying in. We started the night with a Campari aperitivo at a trattoria overlooking the piazza then went for a meal of pappardelle alle cinghaile (ribbon pasta with wild boar sauce) and a glass of Orvieto, a light floral white wine from Umbria. It was a great finish to my stay in Siena. I took the train to Rome and spent the afternoon strolling around. The Colosseum was not too far from my hotel and that was my first stop. What a spectacular sight it is with its three levels of arches. One can readily imagine the fierce gladatorial contests that took place in this ancient arena. I continued on to the 12th century Basilica of San Clemente, which was built on top of a 4th century church, and the Basilica di San Giovani, a monumental cathedral founded by the Emperor Constantine in 324 AD.  I finished up by crossing the Tiber via the Ponte Fabricio, a bridge first built in 62 BC to the trendy Trastavere district. I fly back to Oz tomorrow.

Around Siena

I started the day with a visit to Siena's 13th century Duomo, one of Italy's greatest Gothic churches. It has a magnificent marble façade and striking interior  with a beatiful inlaid marble mosaic floor, a gorgeous round stained glass window, and topped with a blue and gold hexagonal dome.  Siena has a lot to offer culturally and I spent the rest of the day visiting places such as the Baptistry withi its lovely baptismal font and the National Picture Gallery, which had masterpieces from the 12th to the 15th century on display. Prominent around Siena is the city symbol of a she-wolf suckling two infants relating to the fable of Romulus and Remus. I head to Rome tomorrow.

Siena

I had an enjoyable bus trip through the rolling hills of the lush Tuscan countryside down to Siena, famous for its Il Palio, the annual wild horse race where riders from the various contradas or town districts compete for the coveted palio or silk banner. The apartment in which I am staying is a stone's throw from the Piazza del Campo, which is undoubtedly the heart of the city, Il Campo, as the irregularly shaped square is known, has a sloping brick surface, which is ideal for lounging on and watching the passing parade. Sitting right on the piazza is the Palazzo Pubblico, the former 13th century Town Hall, which is an important example of civil Gothic architecture. The Palazzo has wonderful wooden concave ceilings and is a treasury of art masterpiecess such as fierce scenes depicting the 12th century pope's battles. There was a chapel dedicated to the life of the Virgin Mary with the original wrought iron screen, chandelier and choir stalls from the 15th century. More on Siena in my next post.

Around Florence

I had a most enjoyable few days in Florence. There is so much to see so I will only touch briefly on some of the wonderful places I visited as after a little while cultural fatigue sets in, I had planned a big day of excursions and started early. My first stop, after walking across the Ponte Vecchio, Florence's classic bridge, was the Uffizi Gallery, the world class art museum holding the private treasures of the  Medici Family. The House of Medici came to prominence from the 14th century and was Europe's most powerful and wealthy family until the early 18th century. The collection ranged from ancient Greek scupltures to 18th century Venetian paintimgs. Of particular interest is the Renaissance display. The Uffizi is enormous with some 45 rooms and over 1500 masterpeices to view. The spendor of the rooms filled with works from the likes of Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Caravaggio was a little overwhelming to take in. After the Uffizi I went next door to the Palazzo Vecchio, the former 13th century seat of the Florentine Government, which consisted of a series of lavish apartments created for the Medici clan. I proceeded past the Loggia dei Lanza, a gorgeous 14th century columned square displaying numerous statues to the breathtaking Duomo with its pink, white and green marble façade and crowned with a red-tiled dome. The inside was equally impressive with its colourful mosaics, stained glass windows and enormous pillars. Florence is a wonderful place to wander around and I did just that, admiring the various old churches and other ancient architecture such as the former portals to the city. I finished the day by taking a 4 klm bus ride to the Piazzale Michelangelo, which sits on an elevated hill overlooking Florence and gives spectacular panoramic views of this amazing city. I head to Sienna tomorrow.

San Gimignano

As the Uffici was closed today, Monday, I took an early bus to the medieval walled hill town of San Gimignano. The two most important sights here are the Collegiata, San Gimignano's Romanesque Cathedral, and the Palazzo Communale. The name, Collegiata, comes from the College of priests and monks, who originally cared for and administered it. The outer façade is rather plain, but inside one is struck with a blaze of vivid frescoes covering the ceiling and all the walls. These wonderful frescoes depict scenes from both the Old and New Testaments. Next to the main altar is a very beautiful Renaissance chapel dedicated to Saint Fina, the town's angelic patron saint. The 12th century Palazzo Communale was the former centre of local government and houses not only remarkable frescoes but some superb paintings in classical style from the Sienese and Florentine schools dating from  the 12th to the 15th centuries. The Palazzo also has an extremely high tower accessed by a seemingly never ending heart racing spiral tower, the Torre Grossa, which gives spectacular views of San Gimignano and its multitude of minor towers as well as an endless panorama of the surrounding verdant î Toscana countryside. I spent another couple of hours exploring the town's cobbled alleyways and finished up with the Passigiata alla Mura, a stroll around the fabled outer walll of this historic commune. San Gimignano is noted for its elegant white wine, Vernaccia, and I sampled  a couple of glasses along with a selection of local cheeses at an enoteca or bar, It was just bursting with flowery bouquet and flavour! More on Firenze in my next post.

Florence

I travelled to Florence via Milan on the supetfast Eurostar Italia and checked into my apartment on the southern side of the Arno away from tlhe maddening crowds. I spent the rest of the day getting to know my local area and checking out the Centrale, where such historic sights as the Uffici Galleria of Art, the Palazzo Vechio and the Duomo are located.

Milan

As I was travelling directly to Florence from Como I decided to spend the day looking around nearby Milan. My first stop after arriving at Milano Centrale, an enormous station in white marble, was the Castello Sforzesco,  a gigantic red-brick Renaissance fortress designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Behind the Castle the green Sempione Park is located and at its southern entrance sits a very impressive monument, the Arco della Pace or Arch of Peace. The 1807 neo-classical Arch, crowned with a six horse carriage and modelled on the Arc du Carrosel in Paris, was dedicated to Napoleon when Milan was under Napoleonic rule. After a relaxing stroll through the Park I headed for the Duomo. What a sight!  The construction of the Cathedral in pink marble began in the late 14th century. On top of its exterior 135 spires reach for the heavens and some 3,200 saintly statues guard the perimeter. Inside there are a multitude of brilliant stained glass windows, intricately carved pillars and numerous individual chapels. After the Duomo I stolled through the elegant  iron and glass Galleria Vittorio, one of Milan's finest Shopping Arcades, to the  La Scala Opera House. On the Gallery floor there is a colourful mosaic of a rampant bull. Milanese tradition claims women can avoid bad luck by grinding their heels into the bull's testicles. I was a littled disconcerted to see women enthusiastically lining up to give the bull's cojones a workout. After this unsettling experience I hastened to the trendy, bohemian district of Breda in search of a friendly bar where I could have a cool drink or three.

Lago di Como

Today I took a ride around the translucent green waters of Lake Come by ferry. The scenery is absolutely magnificent with heavily wooded  verdant hills on either side, the occasional mountain streen trickling down into the lake and a plethora of colourful villages scattered along its shoreline. I stopped for a wander around at three of the villages, Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna. Bellagio is the guidebook favourite with its steep stone staircases, elegant villas and trendy boutiques while Menaggio is a very pretty village with a lovely cobblestone central square, which overlooks the lake and affords spectacular views. However my favourite was Varenna with its beautiful floral and plant gardens and pastel coloured villas that seem to defy the laws of physics. It was a very relaxing and memorable day.

Como

In Como I am staying at the Albergo del Duca, a small family inn sitting in the picturesque Piazza Mazzini, which is named after the 18th century politician responsible for the unification of Italy. I`m located right in the heart of Como`s historical centre so I took a stroll around its colourful streets. The Como Duomo is particularly beautiful with a melange of Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque and Renaissance styles as its construction began in the 14th century and was not completed until 1740. Inside, the central aisle is lined with gorgeous tapestries while outside, the cathedral is crowned with an octagonal marble dome 75 metres high. After my walk I headed for the waterfront and took the Funicolare or cable car, constructed in 1894, up to the 720 metre high village of Brunate. The 7 minute ride up, ascending at an angle of 60°, afforded breathtaking views of Lake Como. Brunate is a tiny village and apart from the St. Andrea Apostolo Church with its beautiful ceiling frescoes it hasn`t got a lot to offer. So, after descending back to Como, I walked around the lakeside to the stunning Tempio Voltiano or Volta Museum, which was built in 1927 to honour the centenary of the death of Altessandro Volta, the distinguished physicist and inventor of the electric battery. The museum showed the instruments Volta used in his experiments. I continued on around the lakeside promenade past the elegant residences to the Villa Olmo, the beautiful 18th century aristocratic residence where Napoleon stayed during his visit to Como in 1797. It was a joy to walk through its palatial rooms and elegant garden. Tomorrow I'll take a ferry aroumd the lake to see some of the other villages.

En Route

The train ride from Cinque Terre to Lake Como was a visual joy. We travelled along the crescent shaped Gulf of Genoa past colourful seaside villages and through countless tunnels, carved into the mountains. From Genoa the scenery changed as our track headed north through the verdant countryside and past scattered vineyards to Milan, where I changed trains for Como. What a change this elegant, picturesque lakeside town is from Cinque Terre! I enjoyed my stay in Cinque Terre with its quaint villages and spectacular scenery. However its international reputation litterally attracts milling crowds of tourists, especially in summer, and it can become quite stiffling. In contrast, Como is virtually deserted. I`ll tell you more about it in my next post.

Around Cinque Terre

I spent my penultimate day having a look around the neighbouring towns of Levanto and La Spezia. Levanto is more of a beach resort, but it has some interesting architecture such as the 13th century Church and Monastery of St. Andrea. La Spezia was flattened during World War 11 because of its naval base, so in conparison with the Cinque Terre Villages, it is relatively new. Indeed, only about five buildings were left standing. One of them was the Amedeo Lia Museum, which houses some superb Italian paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries including a couple from the great Venetian master, Canaletto. I head for Lake Como tomorrow.

Pisa

I woke up to an inclement morning so, rather than hike between the villages in wet and muddy conditions, I decided to take the train to Pisa and see the Leaning Tower, The Piazza dei Miraacoli , where the Tower stands, or rather leans, is about a kilometre or so from the train station and one has to traverse the mighty Arno River by one of its charming bridges to get there. On the southern bank of the Arno I came across the 13th century Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina, an ornate Gothic styled church embellished with three spires and encrusted with statues of the various saints circling its exterior. The Leaning Tower, which was built in the 13th century, is just an incredible sight. Everyone is familiar with it so I won't attempt to describe it except to say it is about 4 metres out of plumb. Engineers have reinforced it  by placing a series of steel braces around the 3rd storey to which they attached steel cables and anchored them to neighbouring buildings. Adjacent to the Tower is the Duomo or Cathedral, which was constructed in the 11th century and is of breathtaking proportions. The interior is held up by over 60 huge, tapering granite columns and  the ornate wooden ceiling is decorated with 24 carat inlays.  As well there is a superb 14th century octagonal pulpit sculptured from local Carrara marble. Michelangelo used this same marble source  for the creation of his masterpieces. Also on the Piazza is the amazing round Baptistry, a double domed construction built in the 12th century. In the middle of the Baptistry is a gorgeous octagonal font in which the great scientist and astronomer, Galileo Galilei, was baptised. Pisa has so much more to offer than just the Leaning Tower and I enjoyed myself wandering aroumd the city.

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is composed of five fishing villages with Italian names that just roll off the tongue, Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Romaggio. The villages, all with stunning mountain and coastal views of the Ligurian Sea, date back from the early medieval period. Monterosso, the oldest, was founded in 643 AD, One can purchase a Cinque Terre card, which allows free train travel between the villages and access to the precipitous hiking trails. I spent the day going from village to village, utilising the 19th  century railway line, and exploring their narrow streets and alleys. Every now and then I would come across an ancient fort or an old castle or discover an illustrious, tiny parish church. I was staying in Vernazza and I finished the day trekking back there from Monterosso along the Sentiero Azzurro or Blue Trail. I was glad of my bushwalking experience with the Gold Coast Bushies as it was hatd going climbing up the slippery cliffsides on the narrow and rocky former mule path, but the rewards such as passing through the pocket sized terraced vinyards and pausing to gaze at the majestic views of the sea and the othet distant villages made the effort extremely worthwhile.

Rome

I caught an early flight from Catania to Rome Fiumcino Airport and from there the Leonardo Express to Termini Station, where my hotel was located nearby, I had booked a tour around the Vatican Musrum and Sistine Chapel in the afternoon so I was free to wander around some of Rome's more famous locations. My first stop was the iconic Trevi Fountain, which shows Neptune ensconced in his marbble chariot and being driven by two seahorses, one wild, the other docile representing  the changing moods of the oceans. The mesmerising scupture virtually takes up the entire piazza, Anita Ekberg introduced it to the world in "The Dolce Vita" when she jumped in and displayed her charms. From the Fountain I made my way to the 18th century Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps, which honoured the Spanish Embassy, which was at that time the dominant power and a great place to linger and do a little people watching. Before heading to the Vatican I went to the Plaza del Popolo, which was used for public executions in the 16th century. In the centre is a gorgeous 36 metre high obelisk, which the Emperor, Augustus 11 brought back from Heliopolis in Ancient Greece. The Piazza is dominated by the Church of Saint Maria del  Popolo, one of Rome's oldest and richest Renaissance Churches. Along with the beautiful frescoes are two masterpieces by the great Caravaggio. My tour of the 5 hectare Vatican Museum, founded by Pope Julius 11 in the early 16th century was sensational and took about 4 hours. It had beautiful floor mosaics, sculptures and glorious paintings by such masters as Leonardo da Vinci, Caravaggio and Bellini. The Sistine Chapel, depicting Michelangelo's ceiling frescoes was an absolute treat. His most famous one is the "Creation of Adam", which shows a bearded God pointing his finger at Adam. There were other magnificent frescoes showing showing scenes from the life of Moses on one wall and the life of Christ on the opposite wall paimted by Botticelli and other great Renaissance masters. On my return to Termini I found a trattoria near my hotel which specialized in classic dishes from Abruzzo, which made a most enjoyable finish to my day.

Mt. Etna

The constantly winding narrow road leading up  to the snow capped cone of Mt Etna gave spectacular views of Taormina and the Ionian coastline. On either side lemon, orange, olive and chesnut trees grown in abundance on the tiny farms there added extra colour to what was already a visual delight.. Lava from past eruptions was evident everywhere fom the small safety walls lining the route to the construction of some of the older houses. We passed one village where the molten lava arrested its flow one metre away from the first house. Folklore has it that the villagers took a statue of the Virgin Mary to the entrance of the Village and prayed for her intersession. It obviously worked a treat. From the parking lot I took the cable car up to an ear popping and rather chilly 2,500 metres and walked up a further 300 or so metres along the slippery snow covered track, but as fog had crept in, making visibility extremely poor, there was little point in continuing on. However, it was a great experience to climb, if only partially, Europe's largest and one of the world's most active volcano. Tomorrow I depart Sicily and fly back to Rome.

Eastwards

It was with a certain reluctance that I left the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, our five star accommodation in Palermo. The Villa sat at the Palermo port entrance where we could watch the fishing boats coming and going while havimg breakfast on the terrace. The cost was 450 euros per night including gourmet breakfast. Say no more! We headed east along the spectacular Tyrrhenian Sea coast to Messina, where we stopped at the Virgin Assumpta Cathedral to see the glorious ceilimg mosaics there and to watch the midday display on their adjacent clocktower. On the stroke of  twelve a golden lion roared, followed by a golden cock crowing and two golden maidens ringing bells. In 1908 Messina experienced a shocking tragedy when an enormous tsunami engulfed the city with 80,000 inhabitants perishing. After lunch we continued on to Taormina. Our hotel sat on the edge of Taormina Bay, giving us a very pleasant aspect of this picturesque coastline. The perfectly preserved medieval town of Taormina, which was the capital of 9th century Byzantine Sicily, is perched on a mountain top. One can access it by rosd or cable car. Toarmina has a wonderfully preservred Graecian Amphitheatre from the 4th century BC, which was constructed from natural stone in which the Ancient Greeks performed their plays. In the 3rd century AD the Romans transformed the Amphitheatre into a Gladiatorial Arena, resplendid in bricks, arches and Corinthian pillars. In the evening we had dinner at a little town called Castelmolle, situated on one of the mountain peaks surrounding the Bay. Saint George is the patron saint of Castelmolle and the town was celebrating his life with a procession amd brass band. Led by the district bishop and the parish priests a contingent of parishioners carrying a huge replica of St Georgio made their way through the streets . It was a colourful sight. Tomorrow we visit Mt Etna.

Erice and Marsala

Today we headed for the spectacular hill town of Erice with its tiny cobbled piazzas and medieval narrow streets. The winding mountain access road gave us 360° views of the verdant countryside with its numerous vinyards. On a clear day one can see as far as Tunisia. Erice is famous as a centre for the cult of Venus with the sacred prostitutes being accommodated naturally in the Temple of Venus. The town also has a reputation for its sweet treats such as marzipan candies and almond and pistachio pastries. We continued on to Matsala best known for its sweet dessert wines and stately baroque buildings. We had a tastimg session at thr elegant Pellegrino Winery. Marsala still produces excellent sea salt and we were able to see this operation using windmills ro extract the salt. At the Archaeolgical Museum we were able to see a partially reconstructed war ship from the 3rd century BC and got a glimpse of a former civilisation that was wiped out by the Romans. Tomorrow we head east to Messina and Taormina.

Around Palermo

Today we headed first to Monreale, some 8 klm. south~west of Palermo to visit the Cathedral there, which is considered the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily. The interior was completed in 1184 by William 11 and incorporates Norman, Arab and Byzantine elements in colourful mosaics showing biblical scenes from the New and Old  Testament. We continued on to the charming, medieval town of Cefalu and wandered around its ancient winding streets admiring its 12th century mosaics before returning to Palermo.

Ancient Times

Today we headed to Palermo via the ancient towns of Piazza Armenia and Agrigento. On the outskirts of Piazza Armenia we walked around the stunning 3rd century AD Villa Romana, a sumptuous hunting lodge belonging to the Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius, and admired the magnificent floor mosaics. These brilliantly coloured mosaics cover a floor area of 3,500 sq, metres and depict hunting scenes showing  chariots, African lions and cheetahs along with the rather voluptuous Queen of Sheba. The mosaic which gets the most attention is called the "Room of the Ten Girls in Bikinis", which show ten sporty girls in modern looking bikinis engaged in games such as throwing a discus, using weights and playing a ball game. We continued on to Agrigento and the splendid 6th century BC Valley of the Temples, showing a series of Doric temples, which although in varying stages of decay, give us a glimpse of this former magnificent Grarcian city. At the Archaeological Museum we admired a huge collection of wonderful ceramic artefacts recovered from the site, including thr "Telamone", a colossal reconstructed statue of a giant. We then continued north to Palermo.

Around Syracuse

This morning we drove south~east from Syracuse to the towns of Noto and Ragusa. In 1693 a devastating earthquake flattened both these towns and from the ruins Sicilian architects using local sandstone from nearby quarrirs created the finest baroque towns in Sicily. In Noto the beautiful San Nicolo Duomo or Cathedral dominatrs the central square, surrounded by elegant villas. Ragusa is more of the same with its grand churches and palaces lining the narrow streets. In a former church we were able to gaze on the superb 1608 oil painting by Caravaggio of the "Burial of St. Lucy", the patron saint of Ragusa. It was a joy to see the original work of such a classic artist. Tomorrow we head for Palermo.

Syracuse

I flew from Casablanca to Catania Airport in Sicly, where our bus was waiting to take the group to our hotel in Syracuse, which at one time was considered the most beautiful city in the world, even rivalling Athens in power and prestige. Our first stop the next moring was the Duomo or Cathedral, a Greek temple which was converted into a church when St. Paul evangelised the city. The baroque façade of the Duomo, which was completed in 1776, is further enhanced with striking 5th century BC Doric columns both inside and out. From the Duomo we walked to the nearby fish market and enjoyed the lively atmosphere as the fishmongers enthusiastically encouraged people to buy from their stalls. We then headed to the Archaeological Park to see the 5th century BC Greek Theatre, where the classic plays by Greek luminaries such as Aeschylus, Plato and Archimedes were performed. Limestone from local quarries was used to build this theatre and the area is still riddled with catacombs from this period. After the Romans invaded and destroyed the ancient Greek civilisation here in the 2nd century AD, they also used this limestone to build a geometrically perfect amphitheatre. Sicily is well known for its seafood and that evening we dined on swordfish washed down with some superb local vino rosso. Arriverderci.

Casablanca

On arriving in Casablanca Mohammed took us for a drive along the Boulevard de la Corniche which, with its sandy beaches and long esplanade, is Morocco's Riviera. We continued on to have a look at the Royal Palace, built in the 20th century, and admired the beautifully decorated and engraved entrance gate, but as we couldn't get inside, we moved on to the view the Hassan II Mosque, which is the world's largest and most magnificent. It was built in the late 20th century and it's minaret, at 200 meters, can be seen for 27 kilometres. The Mosque with its coloured mosaics, Venezian chandeliers and marble walls and floors, is breathtaking. It has three sections. One for prayer, another for washing in which the believers thoroughly cleanse themselves prior to praying and the third as a sauna and massage area. The Mosque, quite remarkably, can accommodate over 100,000 Moslems at the same time. This is my last night in Morocco. Tomorrow we head for Sicily. Ciao!

A Little More On Marrakech

After leaving the Saadian Tombs we stopped by the Jardin Majorelle, a UNESCO designated  botanical garden designed in the 1920's by the renowned French painter, Jacques Majorelle, and a tranquil haven away from the incessant noise and animation outside its walls. The Garden featured an abundance of exotic plants and trees from five continents. After Jacques Majorelle's death it was acquired by Yves Saint Laurent, who further embellished it. After our dinner at the former Palace our wonderful minder, Mohammed, who made sure we saw the very best that Morocco had to offer in great style and panache, took us to see a Bedouin extravaganza called "Fantasia", which showed  a series of charges in the central kasbah arena by fierce-looking desert tribesmen riding their white Arabian horses and firing their muskets in the air. They were dressed in flowing traditional robes and it was quite a spectacle. It was followed by a dark, Bedouin  maiden performing a sensual belly dance to a mesmerizing drumbeat. A colourful climax to a really enjoyable day. Incidentally, if you so desire, you can check out that luxurious palace restaurant we went to on google as below:

palais gharnata marrakech

Marrakech

Our hotel was situated on the stately Mohammed VI Avenue,  a gorgeous floral thoroughfare lined in the centre with  rose and orange trees. which stretched for 8 kilometres. We drove along this avenue to the old city medina and our first stop was the 77 metre high 12th century Koutoubia Mosque and Minaret, which can be seen for miles in any direction. Non-Muslims are not permitted inside this ancient and revered edifice, but one can still see its decorative panels and the remnants of its painted plaster and brightly coloured tiles, which, over the centuries, have set the standard for classic Moroccan architecture. After the Koutoubia Mosque we proceeded to two palaces, the Bahia and the Badia. The Palais de la Bahia was built in the late 19th century as the residence of the Grand Vizier or Regent. It is rather a rambling structure with lovely mosaic floor and wall tiles, stunning fountains, riads or square open gardens and numerous secluded, shady courtyards. An interesting point is that the Grand Vizier had 4 wives. Bahia, after whom the palace was named, was his favourite and had the biggest and best decorated apartment. The next palace we visited was the Badia, which was constructed in the 16th century by the Sultan el Masour and, with its Italian marble and precious building materials from India, was reputed to be the most beautiful in the world. Unfortunately, following the death of the Sultan, it was destroyed by another dynasty and all that remains of the ruins is a large central square enclosed by crumbling mud-brick walls. However, with a little imagination, one can get an idea of its former grandeur. After the Palaces we stopped for a pleasant stroll through the verdant Minera Gardens, which in reality is a 100 hectare of prime olive trees, and joined many local families relaxing and having a picnic there. We next visited the Saadian Tombs, which we entered through a superbly decorated 1,000 year old Gate or Bab, and where Sultan el Masour and his family were enterred in surroundings of great style and opulence. We finished our day in the Djema el Fna, the central market square and heart of Marrakech. Rows of food stalls lined the perimeter area while jugglers, fortune tellers, snake charmers, magicians and acrobats took over the central space to a ceaseless cacophony of drumbeats and animation. The labyrinthine souk meanders off  the square, selling every conceivable item one can think of. We finished the evening with a silver service  meal at the most sublime palace I have been in, accompanied by subtle mandolin music. What an exotic finish to a great day!

The Road to Marrakech

Ouarzazate is the centre of the Moroccan Film Industry and, on the outskirts of town, we saw a couple of large film studios. Our first stop was the village of Ait Ben Haddou, a UNESCO designated World Heritage kzar or Kasbah community. We were able to have a look inside some of these cool, spacious castle-like family dwellings and thus got a glimpse of an ancient culture and way of life. Ait Ben Haddou has been frequently utilized as the backdrop of several major international films such as the "Gladiator" and "Lawrence of Arabia". After our visit we climbed to the summit of the majestic High Atlas Mountains and began our descent to Marrakech via the Tizi n'Tichka pass from a height of 2,260 metres. It was a breathtaking drive down this scenic, serpentine mountain road. At one stage we stopped to admire and take some photos of the sheer cliffs and snow-capped peaks when, rather opportunistically, a couple of local snake charmers came out of the woodwork and entertained us with their dancing death adder and magic flute routine. We continued on to the old imperial city of Marrakech, also referred to as the "Jewel of the South", and are looking forward to seeing what we can of this infamous city in the short time we have here.

Westward Ho!

Our first stop after leaving the Kasbah was at Erfoud, a small town well known for its unique fossils. These marvelous geological formations of segmentation rock go back 600 million years and reflect the marine life at that time. We continued on our way alongside the Todra River to the Todra Gorge and stopped for coffee at an oasis there, surrounded by a sea of date palm trees. We then left the desert area and started to climb once again into the High Atlas Mountains, where the air was noticeably cooler. We passed through the town of Boumalne Dades, which is famous throughout Morocco for its fragrant rose oil, and then descended into the Dades Gorge. This picturesque area, with its numerous Berber kasbahs, fig and almond orchards and unusual rock formations, is particularly striking. Our hotel for the night was in the former French garrison town of Ouarzate. Tomorrow we head for Marrakech.

The Sahara

The Tombouctou Kasbah with its fortress-like exterior is an amazing place in which to stay. Inside the suites and public rooms have all the modern conveniences and services a guest could wish for along with the traditional furnishings and colours that reflect the Berber heritage of this part of the world. I got up early this morning in order to watch a Saharan sunrise from the top of the sand dunes and I got there by riding on a single humped camel or dromedary. It was still dark when I reached my mount and straddled the wide saddle on the docile beast. My guide, Moustapha, resplendid in his pale blue djellaba and maroon coloured headscarf,  gave a little click and we were up and away. It was sensational being astride the dromedary as he made his way through the fine grained, golden sand towards the highest dunes. As I rocked and rolled I soon understood why camels are called "the ships of the desert". This particular area around Merzouga is famous for being the sole place in Morocco where one can see a genuine Saharan erg, where large bodies of sand continually drift around, constantly forming new sculptured shapes. I was expecting a red sunrise but instead the sun was a brilliant white. It was a real fun morning! After breakfast we set off in the 4 wheel drive vehicles further into the desert to meet a Bedouin family and see first hand their way of life. The family lived in a large open tent with two sections, one for sleeping and the other a living area. They had plenty of cushions and appeared comfortable. Nearby they had erected a small stone oven in which they cooked their meals and baked their flat unleavened bead. The family seemed content with this nomadic lifestyle. Tomorrow we reluctantly leave the Kasbah and head west.

Heading South

We had an early start from Fes heading due south. Our journey took us over the Middle and High Atlas Mountains, through the spectacular Ziz Gorge and ended up in a Berber Kasbah on the fringe of the Sahara Desert. On the way we passed ever changing and stunning landscapes and covered some 500 kilometres. Our first stop was for a coffee break at the town of Ifrane, which is also widely known as "Morocco's Switzerland", and for good reason. The French built Ifrane during the 1920's when Morocco was a Protectorate of France primarily for its position on the crest of the snow-capped Middle Atlas Mountains and indeed, with its wide tree-lined avenues, manicured lawns and elegant villas, it does give the appearance of an Alpine village. On departing Ifrane we began climbing up the Middle Atlas Mountains, surrounded on either side by pine and cedar forests. We stopped for lunch at a traditional Kasbah restaurant in the town of Midelt and dined on fresh water trout slowly cooked in foil over hot coals. Absolutely superb! We were delayed for a couple of hours here as Midelt was one of the stages of the annual Tour de Maroc Cycling Race. It was well worth the wait to see these dedicated professional bike riders whizzing by, flanked by their entourage and preceded by a phalanx of the Moroccan Motor Cycle Constabulary on their gleaming 1200cc BMW bikes. After Midelt we climbed steeply into the High Atlas Mountains then descended sharply down into the Ziz Valley, which, because of its sheer, towering cliffs, is also known as the Grand Canyon of Morocco. Our route ran alongside the Ziz River and every now and then we would pass by a verdant oasis, thick with groves of dark green date palms. The destination for our bus today was the Southern Moroccan Berber township of Merzouga, where we transferred into 4 wheel drive vehicles and drove to our opulent accommodation at the Tombouctou Kasbah and Spa, where we would chill out for a couple of days. I will let you know what I got up to in my next post.

Fes

Fes is the oldest of the four imperial cities and is generally regarded as the cradle of Moroccan civilization, so we were quite keen to check it out. Our first port of call was the Royal Palace where the current king, Mohammed VI, resides when in Fes. The ornamental bronze gates and the tall walls resplendid with superb mosaics overlooking a large square, where people strolled or relaxed, was a sight to behold. One can only be in awe of the craftsmanship involved here. From the Palace we visited the colourful Jewish cemetery nearby. There is a synagogue adjacent to the cemetery and, even though it is no longer in use, it still houses its original Torah or parchment scroll of Jewish Religious Law, which its guardian proudly displayed to us. Morocco once had 40,000 Jews living here. We then headed to Morocco's original walled medina, an incredible maze of twisting alleys and blind turns along which there is every conceivable type of market and craft workshops. We visited leather, carpet and ceramic shops, watched various skilled artisans at work and generally wandered around this incredible souk and bazaar. Occasionally we had to press ourselves against the narrow walls of these passageways as a donkey loaded up to the gunwhales with merchandise trundled by. After picking up a few souvenirs we made our way to one of the most remarkable restaurants I have ever been in. It was a former palace, built at the beginning of the 20th century and belonged to the then Minister of Defence. Gorgeous mosaic tiles embellished the walls, elaborate chandeliers hung from the carved, cedar ceiling and traditional Moroccan carpets lined the floor. We dined in this great opulence on chicken and vegetable couscous served tajine style. It was delicious. After lunch we concluded our day with a visit to a ceramic making factory on the outskirts of the city, where we watched the potters at work and ladies hand painting the finished porcelain in intricate colors and designs. A very pleasant day indeed!

The Rif Mountains Pass

From Tanger we headed south-west across the majestic Rif Mountains. The views as we ascended the numerous steep peaks and descended into the verdant valleys was absolute magic. On either side olive trees, thick patches of cactus plants and other local flora grew in abundance and were further embellished with trickling mountain streams. We stopped for lunch at the delightful town of Chefchaouen, nestled in one the Rif valleys and noted for its cool, invigorating climate. The colourful blue and white houses here reflect the Spanish heritage of the people. Our restaurant was inside the  medina, which also had an animated market place or souk on the central square. We had a traditional Moroccan lunch of meatballs and a spicy vegetable stew, cooked very slowly in individual earthenware dishes over hot coals, washed down with sweet, mint tea. This style of cooking is known as "tajine" and is also very popular in Turkey. After Chefchaouen we headed for the UNESCO World Heritage listed Roman ruins at Volubilis, which date back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD and were one of the Roman Empire's most remote outposts. The site consisted of stunning mosaics, a basilica, temples and a forum or market place along with numerous columns and arches. International archeologists sponsored by UNESCO are patiently excavating and restoring Volubilis to a semblance of its former glory. From Volubilis we continued on to Meknès, where we stopped to view the massive gate of Bab el Mansour or Victory Gate. This enormous and exceptionally well preserved, highly decorated gate is the main entrance to this 17th century imperial city. Our final stop after Meknès was Fes, where we shall remain for a couple of days.

Heading North

Rabat, as befits the nation's capital city, is very impressive and we set out to see what we could of it before heading north along the Atlantic coastal highway to Tanger. The main attractions of Rabat are the Hassan Tower, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Kasbah. On the way to see these sights we passed Rabat's Medina or "Old City". All the imperial cities have medinas which are located behind tall, imposing walls. This medina is relatively young as it only dates back to the 17th century. However the Hassan Tower is considerably older. The construction of this enormous minaret began late in the 12th century and it still dominates its surroundings. On the same square is the imposing Mausoleum of the former king of Morocco, Mohammed V, with its gorgeous Italian marble façade and elegant lattice stonework. Mohammed V lies in state inside an ornamental sarcophagus, guarded in each corner by a soldier in ceremonial uniform. We were able to gaze down on his last resting place from an upper balcony walkway. The countryside changed the farther north we went and we began to pass banana, melon and strawberry plantations. Before reaching Tangier we diverted to the charming seaside resort of Asilah, which was the former meeting place of the caravanserai or trading camels. Asilah, with it's lovely beach , long walking promenade and 15th century Portuguese heritage would be an ideal place to chill out for a couple of days. We had decided to only stay briefly in Tangier so that we could get an early start the next morning and spend more time in Fes, so,before arriving at our hotel, we paid a visit to the Grotto of Hercules where this mythological Greek hero is said to have rested after performing the 12 "herculean" tasks given him by the King of Eurysthesus. Remarkably, the natural sea entrance to the Grotto is in the shape of an easily recognizable map of the continent of Africa. After the Grotto we made our way to Cap Spartel and, from the ancient ramparts there, we viewed the coming together of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.

Morocco Arrival

Our tour bus and guide, Mohammed, met us at Casablanca Airport and we set off along the modern three lane highway. The bus was large enough for us all to grab a window seat and thus we had a panoramic view of the flat, verdant countryside featuring numerous olive trees  and squat, white farm houses. Morocco is a North African country situated on the Atlantic Ocean. It has a population of 32 million and, along with Algeria and Tunisia, forms that bloc of nations known as the Maghreb, loosely translated as "red sunset". Mohammed informed us that the spectacular local sunset is because the sun rises in Mecca and sets in the Maghreb. Morocco is a constitutional kingdom with strong secular traditions and, of course, the dominant religious faith is Islamic. We were heading for  Rabat, Morocco's capital, and along the route we by-passed the nation's largest city, Casablanca. We would return to this city on our penultimate day and following in the footsteps of that enigmatic, inimitable legend, Humphrey Bogart, I was keen to explore this exotic, French influenced city with its wide boulevards, public parks and imposing Moorish architecture. However, after two days of virtual continuous travel I was a little weary and I was glad when we reached our hotel in Rabat so that I could turn in. I'll get a chance to have a look around Rabat tomorrow and I'll tell you about it in my next post.

GETTING READY

On April 5 next I fly off from Brisbane to Casablanca in Morocco via Singapore and Rome. I shall be joining a small group of enthusiastic and experienced fellow travellers from the Australia China Friendship Society and we shall travel for two weeks in a clockwise direction in our own bus from Casablanca, visiting not only the four imperial cities of Fès, Meknès, Marrakech and Rabat but also the natural attractions of the Atlantic coast along with the remote villages of the High Atlas and Rif mountains and then make our way across the Sahara Desert. After Morocco we head to historic Sicily, where we shall spend another two weeks exploring this gastronomic and architecturally significant island, finishing up, of course, on Europe's most spectacular volcano, Mt Etna. At this stage, when we get back to Rome, I will leave the group and spend a couple of weeks in Italy by myself, visiting, at first, Cinque Terre, a gorgeous, mountain area consisting of five charming and idyllic villages overlooking the Ligurian Sea. From there I shall head north to picturesque Lake Como, located in the shadow of the Italian Alps, where I shall explore this stunning area by local ferry. After Lake Como my next stop will be Tuscany, spending three days each in the renowned art centres of Florence and Siena before making my way back to Rome and then homeward bound.