Monday, 14 April 2014

Marrakech

Our hotel was situated on the stately Mohammed VI Avenue,  a gorgeous floral thoroughfare lined in the centre with  rose and orange trees. which stretched for 8 kilometres. We drove along this avenue to the old city medina and our first stop was the 77 metre high 12th century Koutoubia Mosque and Minaret, which can be seen for miles in any direction. Non-Muslims are not permitted inside this ancient and revered edifice, but one can still see its decorative panels and the remnants of its painted plaster and brightly coloured tiles, which, over the centuries, have set the standard for classic Moroccan architecture. After the Koutoubia Mosque we proceeded to two palaces, the Bahia and the Badia. The Palais de la Bahia was built in the late 19th century as the residence of the Grand Vizier or Regent. It is rather a rambling structure with lovely mosaic floor and wall tiles, stunning fountains, riads or square open gardens and numerous secluded, shady courtyards. An interesting point is that the Grand Vizier had 4 wives. Bahia, after whom the palace was named, was his favourite and had the biggest and best decorated apartment. The next palace we visited was the Badia, which was constructed in the 16th century by the Sultan el Masour and, with its Italian marble and precious building materials from India, was reputed to be the most beautiful in the world. Unfortunately, following the death of the Sultan, it was destroyed by another dynasty and all that remains of the ruins is a large central square enclosed by crumbling mud-brick walls. However, with a little imagination, one can get an idea of its former grandeur. After the Palaces we stopped for a pleasant stroll through the verdant Minera Gardens, which in reality is a 100 hectare of prime olive trees, and joined many local families relaxing and having a picnic there. We next visited the Saadian Tombs, which we entered through a superbly decorated 1,000 year old Gate or Bab, and where Sultan el Masour and his family were enterred in surroundings of great style and opulence. We finished our day in the Djema el Fna, the central market square and heart of Marrakech. Rows of food stalls lined the perimeter area while jugglers, fortune tellers, snake charmers, magicians and acrobats took over the central space to a ceaseless cacophony of drumbeats and animation. The labyrinthine souk meanders off  the square, selling every conceivable item one can think of. We finished the evening with a silver service  meal at the most sublime palace I have been in, accompanied by subtle mandolin music. What an exotic finish to a great day!

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